Starter has to be changed

[joel gopan]

The Solenoid is not an "oddball" it is a standard Heavy Duty Delco, and most likely Delco Part No 1108114, 12 Volt. Yves needs a starter to match the flywheel ring gear and the number of teeth must be ascertained. Once that is determined, and hopefully the tooth count is 139, Yves can simply install a standard CCKW Starter. No parts dealer in the world would have a clue if all he were given was a choice of Armature shaft diameters. We are talking 60+ years old and a hard enough item to find in the US of A let alone a parts dealer in Europe, especially when the syatem has been altered for some unknown reason. I tend not to improvise and think original, that makes it easier, and more reliable. The CCKW in its 6 Volt version will function just fine if the electrical components are up to spec. Mine starts just fine and turns over as well as it would have when it was delivered in 1941.

[dr deuce]

The armature diameter is a dead giveaway for the voltage of the starter. A lot easier than trying to count 139 teeth on a flywheel mounted to an engine while under a truck looking up at only part of the flywheel.

I have seen a lot of GM starters for Chevy and small GMC engines in over 35 years playing with these trucks and have never seen this solenoid and starter combination. The normal GM external linkage solenoid is round and has 2 large terminals on the back end, one for the battery and one connected to the starter. In addition, it has one or two small terminals: One if it is 6v and 2 if it is 12v, the 2nd one for the ignition resistor bypass.

As I stated earlier, if it is actually a 12v starter, he can install a 12v lever action starter that looks just like the CCKW starter and will work fine with a 12v battery.

The problem as I see it with the above solution is that he would have a tough time to find one of those starters in Europe. They are not common in the US. Out of about 25 starters that I have (not on engines), I don't think I have one of those

The lever action starters have a different connection to the outside world which actually forms part of the starter switch contact assy.

The alternative to a 12v starter if he has a 12v ring gear is changing the ring gear or flywheel to match an original CCKW 6v starter.

[joel gopan]

To cut thru the extraneous paragraphs of non essential information,
The Original CCKW RING GEAR has 139 Teeth
Solution, Count the teeth, if it has 139 Teeth, simply install a CCKW starter.
This thread is an excellent example of why it is much simpler to maintain your CCKW the way it left the factory.
562,000 CCKWs could not have been wrong, and there are no GMC Factory Service Bulletins showing problems with the CCKW Starters during 1941-1945 time period.

[dr deuce]

>there are no GMC Factory Service Bulletins showing problems with the >CCKW Starters during 1941-1945 time period.

The post war CCKW artic extra battery and battery heater kit were done for a reason....

Talk to Korean war vets about CCKWs in the Korean winters. I have

I like to do things the easiest reliable way possible: measuring the shaft diameter is a lot easier then counting teeth from underneath!

[joel gopan]

Seeing that you brought it up first, I would like to add that there were Wartime winterization kits for all Military Standard WWII wheeled and Tracked vehicles, most included blankets, insulation for battery boxes and Gasoline burning Stoves by Perfection Stove that were plumbed into the Cooilng and fuel system and to battery box heaters. These were developed during WWII to enable the trucks to be operated in sub zero tempreratures. They were quite primative and involved ducting and flexable hoses to thevarious gearboxes in the power train. There was a Beiderman 6X6 up here that sat at a surplus dealers yard for 20 years that still had traces of this kit. Many trucks surplused out of Presque Isle AFB in Maine had these kits installed. The Stewart Warner 978 Series Gasoline Burning Personell Heater Kits complete with Priming Pumps for the Intake Manifolds were a Post War Accesory. I have a NOS Stewart Warner 978 Heater Kit for the CCKW stored away. It includes the ducting for the defrosters . The Heater box mounts on the Left Fender. To install it involves cutting a 4" hole in the Drivers side of the Cowl in order to duct the heat to the cab. (I will trade it, Manual included, for a NOS CCKW Hard Top Kit)The Insulated Hard tops for most WWII Vehicles were Post War. I just pitched the battery portion of a kit for the G-506 Chevrolet, and gave the Slave Cable Plug to Army Jeep Parts. FYI The Hot water Personnel Heater for CCKW was available starting early 1944. Again, every major combat wheeled vehicle in the WWII Army inventory had a Winterization Kit available should its assignment warrant it. I have some NOS Gasoline burning heaters in original WWII boxes available that were plumbed into the fuel lines of WWII trucks (GMC included), and hung by a bail from under the chassis to keep engines/powertrain warm. These Heaters look awful nice displayed alongside my CCKW This does not change the fact that there were zero problems with the design of the CCKW starter, 562,000 CCKWs were built, not to mention that 10s of thousands of that same starter were installed in the Commercial WWII Chevrolet Pickups and Sedans. The Sedan, pickups and G-506 also used the same part number flywheel ring gear.


Frank Von Rosensteil had NOS Starters in stock, I have a couple NOS that are private stock for trading, and have a couple of professionaly reconditioned ones for sale.

[armydriver]

Wow. Pretty good exchange there fellows. Starters to winterazation kits all at the same time. I am glad it stays warm in South Texas. Here you don't need stuff on the running boards and ducts and heater hoses run everywhere, you just put on a heavier jacket.

[Ledog]

It's done!! (at last)

I've changed the starter and installed the starter linkage & pedal today.

Here is the story, from the begining.

I had a 12V starter, with an electric coil to pull the fork in place of the original foot pedal. This coil was old and capricious. It didn't work well.


I had this pedal linkage from the guy I bought the truck from. I was missing the "mushroom" that comes onto the threading.


I've cleaned it with a metal brush then primed and painted it OD.
Yes, it's the same one

You remember my rear window grid? It was at the same time.

Then, I had to find a mushroom. I found a guy in France, wo sent me one for a few bucks.


And this is the new starter I bought in Belgium last month. It's a french army NOS one dated form the 60's. It is 6V, but will work without any problem on a 12V system, as it runs for a very short while at the time.




I removed the old starter. (Note that I had to unscrew the fuel filter)


Placed the new starter and the linkage. (I had to unscrew the cab bottom firewall to put the pedal in place, due to lack of space.)


The foot pedal, wiewed from under. (This new OD paint contrasts with the motor's old green. But should I have painted it OLD ? )
[URL=http://www.espacesite.com/eazipictures/ ... _place.JPG][img]http://www.espacesite.com/eazipictures/ ... ale_en_pla

[dr deuce]

Lookin good!

The starter linkage is the same as the chevy. The difference is the spacers that it mounts on in the GMC. That spacer height is how much lower the GMC power train sits in the chassis compared to the chevy.

[OtterLRC]

I realize this thread is rather old, but I would like to get in touch Ledog about the starter he removed. If anyone can help that would be great.

Thanks
Jordan