If you have never removed a CCKW rear torque rod, it can be a 'treat'!
The best way to do it (I have tried many different ways) is to buy the correct pickle fork. This is like a large ball joint seperator. You loosen the nut so there is a gap between the nut and the housing and place the pickle fork between the torque rod and the housing it is mounted to. You then hit the end of pickle fork with a large hammer. When I did the last ones, I used a 20 lb sledge hammer. The truck was chassis and cab so I had an easy shot. One good hit and off they popped right off with the mounting nut preventing the torque rod from flying off.
Now, speaking about flying off. Before I use the device again, I will weld a loop onto the side of the pickle fork so that I may tie a rope to it with the other end attached to part of the truck. Keep this rope relatively short.
This comes from experience. One that I do not care to repeat. On the last torque rod, when the rod popped from the housing, the pickle fork flew off and hit me in the stomach with great force. I was lucky it did not hit me in the head, or that the sharper end did not hit me....
Be careful!
Torque rod removal and safety
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- Brigadier General
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Torque rod removal and safety
Dr Deuce Over 50,000 driven miles in a CCKW
1942 CCKW closed cab shopvan
1943 CCKW closed cab cargo w/M32 MG mount
1944 CCKW open cab LeRoi Kompressor
1944 CCKW open cab F1 Aircraft fueler tanker
1945 CCKW open cab cargo w/artic cab
1942 Chev cargo
1942 Chev K51 Panel
1944 Chev M6 Bomb Truck
1942 GPW Jeep
http://home.comcast.net/~cckw/wsb/html/ ... 59870.html
1942 CCKW closed cab shopvan
1943 CCKW closed cab cargo w/M32 MG mount
1944 CCKW open cab LeRoi Kompressor
1944 CCKW open cab F1 Aircraft fueler tanker
1945 CCKW open cab cargo w/artic cab
1942 Chev cargo
1942 Chev K51 Panel
1944 Chev M6 Bomb Truck
1942 GPW Jeep
http://home.comcast.net/~cckw/wsb/html/ ... 59870.html
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- First Lieutenant
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Re: Torque rod removal and safety
Dr D - does anyone know where I can get the correct pickle fork to remove the torque rods?
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- Brigadier General
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- Location: Pembroke NH
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Re: Torque rod removal and safety
I think I bought mine at the local (good) auto parts store, not your Auto-Zone type place
Dr Deuce Over 50,000 driven miles in a CCKW
1942 CCKW closed cab shopvan
1943 CCKW closed cab cargo w/M32 MG mount
1944 CCKW open cab LeRoi Kompressor
1944 CCKW open cab F1 Aircraft fueler tanker
1945 CCKW open cab cargo w/artic cab
1942 Chev cargo
1942 Chev K51 Panel
1944 Chev M6 Bomb Truck
1942 GPW Jeep
http://home.comcast.net/~cckw/wsb/html/ ... 59870.html
1942 CCKW closed cab shopvan
1943 CCKW closed cab cargo w/M32 MG mount
1944 CCKW open cab LeRoi Kompressor
1944 CCKW open cab F1 Aircraft fueler tanker
1945 CCKW open cab cargo w/artic cab
1942 Chev cargo
1942 Chev K51 Panel
1944 Chev M6 Bomb Truck
1942 GPW Jeep
http://home.comcast.net/~cckw/wsb/html/ ... 59870.html
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- First Lieutenant
- Posts: 80
- Joined: Sat Jul 13, 2013 5:42 pm
- Location: Woodend. 3442. 75 km outside Melbourne, Australia.
Re: Torque rod removal and safety
Worst case scenario Dr Deuce you could have been seriously killed and were lucky to get away without being forked!
I've never seen let alone owned a pickle fork but it sounds to be a larger version of a tie rod end removal tool which makes sense.
The method I have always used to disconnect torque rods on CCKW, DUKW and US6 vehicles (quite a few over the years) is to back off or remove the nut and use a 7 pound sledge to to hammer on the outside of the mounting where the taper passes through. Now and then tap on the end of the threaded section to see if the taper has let go. This method has never failed me as the metal to metal fit of the tapered surfaces is that good they don't rust.
David
I've never seen let alone owned a pickle fork but it sounds to be a larger version of a tie rod end removal tool which makes sense.
The method I have always used to disconnect torque rods on CCKW, DUKW and US6 vehicles (quite a few over the years) is to back off or remove the nut and use a 7 pound sledge to to hammer on the outside of the mounting where the taper passes through. Now and then tap on the end of the threaded section to see if the taper has let go. This method has never failed me as the metal to metal fit of the tapered surfaces is that good they don't rust.
David