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How to convert the CCKW to modern traffic standards?

Posted: Wed Aug 20, 2008 10:30 am
by Chris_M
My country has strict rules for being able to participate on the streets and in traffic nowadays.

A must are modern blinkers (orange) front and back. Fortunately my truck already had these "gimmicks" when I bought it (ex french army). Additional brake lights have been mounted on the mud flaps as well, although the one original brake light would be enough. Now I have three operational brake lights. :) The blackout lights are disabled.

But two important things are missing:

First. The four blinker lights must be able blink all together (in case of emergency or breakdown to warn others) not just the two left and the two right.
How can I integrate this feature? I only have a switch installed that "knows" three positions on (left), off and on (right). A simple relais lets the lights blink.

Second. Our Authorities demand an "anti theft device" for the vehicle. That means unauthorized people may not be able to jump into the truck, turn ignition switch, start the engine and drive away. An easy task with my open cab Jimmy at the moment. Just disconnecting a battery cable is not satisfactory.
Does anyone know an elegant solution to disable electricity? I know modern army vehicles have special keys that disconnect the battery. Not only to prevent theft but also to prevent current from causing short circuit and possibly burning cables resulting in fires.

All these modifications should be able to be made without harming the vehicle much more. I don't want to drill more holes, remove original parts etc. My truck should stay as original as possible within the restrictions I was given by the traffic authorities.

Every piece of advice is appreciated.

Regards,

Chris

Posted: Wed Aug 20, 2008 2:16 pm
by John V Cliche
Chris
Change you current turn signal switch to one that has the "four way" feature as part of the switch ,here state side signal stat makes one I'm you could locate a version nearer to you.

Here' an idea I heard from Dr Deuce use an additional switch in the power lead that currently feeds your "ignition " switch you could disguise it as a lite switch or possibly hide it " behind the glove box"...or....?????

Hope this helps
John

Posted: Wed Aug 20, 2008 7:00 pm
by dr deuce
If you are running 12 volts (I am not sure about 6 volts, might be too much current for the switch), move the ignition feed to the lead that powers the brake light switch. That way, when the headlight switch is all the way in (push-pull type) or in the center (rotary), there will be no power to the ignition switch.

Posted: Wed Aug 20, 2008 8:44 pm
by Barry Churcher
Chris, go next door to Holland and get a switch off a DAF or a NEKAF. You can mount it anywhere out of sight in the NEGATIVE (no sparks) battery cable. You can run the cable up to the glove box and hide it there. It takes a key like a large Allen wrench. When you shut it off there will be no power to start and you will also have no current draw to kill your battery. The switch is very heavy duty for a large amperage load. I can get you a photo of one if you like.
Cheers,
Barry

Posted: Thu Aug 21, 2008 4:24 am
by Chris_M
Thank you guys,

very good ideas from all of you. I will check my ressources and dealers to get everything I need.

Btw, I am running 6V, rotary Light switch.

Regards,

Chris

Posted: Thu Aug 21, 2008 8:39 am
by John V Cliche
Vintage Wireing of Maine has the turn signal control you need.
Joe Hall does ship "across the pond " regularly.
Hope this helps
John