Chevy arrived today... initial observations and comments

[daveyboy]

Well, my new (1942) 1.5 chevy arrived today.

I have owned a few dodges 1/2 ton and 3/4 ton trucks over the years. All are noisy to a degree and needed full rebuilds and "tweeking" here and there. the noise was always there, the nature of the beast I guess. Open cabs are much better than the closed, as the noise resonates inside.


Note this is my first chevy 1.5 tonner. This is the first of one this size, so bear with me and please feel free to comment on my thought and initial reactions.


My first reaction seeing it for the first time I think it looked good. really good body wise actually.

So, my first reaction to the sheet metal is, "hell, this is nice"

Now, the cargo bed is another story. need a little patching, no big deal.

the rest of the cab I am very pleased with, aside from the way too mushy seat! It needs to be stiffened!! I feel I sink way to far into it and too far away from the steering wheel.

Hell, I can let the beer gut grow now! I got lots of room!

HOWEVER>...I got bigger issues I think with the running of the truck.

Why? well, It took quite a bit of coaxing from me to get this truck to start. Sounded and smelled flooded. now part of it could be because of the travel, bouncing around.

not sure.

But the thing is defiantly not idling all that great. After I started it , and let it warm up (Dont need much here as the weather is 90 degrees!!!)
I took it for a spin.

It stalled a few times. and it runs poorly. rough idling, low idling, etc.

could this an isolated incidence due to travel perhaps getting all jostled around?

I can see I need to do a little work on it before I feel comfortable taking it out on the road.

Second.

the steering. It was really loose compared to trucks I have owned.

Is the steering box adjustable?

I havent had it up to much speed, but I did get it into fourth and all.

I noticed the tranny is somewhat hard to find the gears. it seems awfull looses and worn..

My gut reaction is it needs a rebuild . am I over reacting? Are they loose like this or no?

THe engine..the past owner told me it was noisy. Well, to tell the truth, I have heard that statement before from guys and where one guy might think one truck is noisy, another may say well he just aint used to old trucks.

I have been around many trucks, and I can tell you, this is NOISY.

It almost sounds like lifter noise or a cracked exhaust manifold.

I know old machinery can be noisy, but this seems to be way too loud.
Are these babbit engines noisy by chance?

Am I disapointed? eh, somewhat,,Not disgusted.. yet...but I am not all that excited either.

I feel the body is its biggest asset. the mechanicals arent all that good, from the engine noise, to the transmission shifting, to the steering loosenes..

All adds up to a overwhelming feeling of "What did I do"?

I know its a big truck and there is some getting used to issues. But I think its a little rough around the edges mechanically.

Ill get on it. I sure hope I dont have to dump lots more into it to get it right!

I think I will replace that engine first off. Maybe its the nature of the babbit pounder engine having noise like this. Maybe its just a worn out engine?

I dont know.

any comments on this guys? Have any of you gone thru this when buying your first "BIG TRUCK"

thanks, signed,

"a bit disapointed in Texas"

[dr deuce]

Steering box is quite adjustable. The chev and gmc have the very best steering arrangement, bar none for a ww2 HMV. Recirculating ball has it all over any of the other ww2 types!

The engines make noise if they are loose and worn out or have manifold leaks which are common. they sometimes make "rattling" noises that sound a little like rapping which is what it really is.

The tranny shifter is usually the problem finding the gears. Finding a chevy topcover or shifter that does not have a "rotary shifter" is almost impossible. If someone removed the reverse lockout lever, they are impossible so shift into 2nd. They tend to be very loose and when in gear, you can move the shifter a lot, especially sideways.

Be advised if you replace parts in the tranny, there are 2 different gear ratio tranny's: civy/early mil and later mil. The later mil units have 2 grooves cut into the counter shaft and reverse idler to id them. Do not mix the 1st/rev gear, cluster gear and reverse idler gears seperately with others. They must be treated as a group.

After you work the bugs out, you will find the chev to be a great truck! It is a fun truck to own and drive. It is not too big, but looks much more like a real truck than a puny Dodge 1/2 or 3/4 tonner.

Give it some time

[daveyboy]

***UPDATE**

Found what I think is the problem with the NOISE.

seems that the exhaust pipe to exhaust manifold connection isnt tight!

Ill bet that the connection is missing the donut gasket as well. Will see. Ill bet that the excessive noise is this reason right here. Even a small crack could cause blowby and noise as well as power loss.

Ill tighten and see oncethe rain stops..

AND>.. when I figure out the starter issue! ARRRGGHHHH!
One problem after another.


The starter turns, but its like its NOT engaging the flywheel.


Its either a broken starter drive or it’s a simple as the battery is run down where as it doesn’t have enough force to push the drive pinion forward to engage. Not sure here yet.

Its been raining since I got home last night so I didn’t try and charge the battery.

anyone think it could ba as simple as a run down battery charge ?

Dave

[Bill_Wolf]

Does your starter have a floor switch or a dash switch?

On my Chevy it is a floor switch and you stepping on the pedal is what forces the "bendix" against the ring gear. Letting off the pedal will force it to disengage and return.

This is not a one way over-running clutch type setup.

Bill

[daveyboy]

yes its the floor push starter type.

Are you saying its possible there is a problem with the starter push rod or peddle not engaging far enough for some reason?

its possible.. I Dont know the truck very well at this point so I cant tell for cetain whats happening under there.

ill look.

to tell the truth, I would love to replace the floor starter type to a remote solenoid tyoe with either a push button starter or incorporte it into the key like a modern car.

Did this on a few vehicles in the past and this is far better .
I know some would castrate me for even saying this, but releiabilty, and dependability matters more than originality.

I want to make a few easily reversable changes to the truck.

One, replace the babbit engine, which i feel is in worse shape than I was told, with a later 1957-62 235 full pressure engine. (already got one lined up)

Despite what RANGER says, I understand its a direct bolt up with little noticable visual diffrence. To me thats a good thing: Added performance, power and reliability.

second, change the charging /starting system to 12 volts.

third, add an under the distro cap electronic ignition system to eliminate the point and condensor. (can see it)

fourth. One wire alternator and bypass all the regulator and other questionable items under that 60+ year old hood.

what do you think?

Dave

[42 chevy]

If you put an 1995 or newer 235 in, you will have a clearance issue with the fan hittiing the fan shroud as the the water pump sits lower. A 1954 engine has the pump sit high as on the early 235. Also with the fan not lined up with the radiator, your cooling effect at idle could be affected as the fan sits lower than the radiator. I speak from experience as I have a 1955 engine in mine. Also the lower radiator hose is a differant diameter coming off the pump.

John Gott

[dr deuce]

You can get around the lower hose issue by putting a section of hose on the outlet then the larger hose over it. Thing of it like a bushing. Works great!

The pump being lower on the engine is remedied by using a slightly smaller fan. Buy one with more blade to make up for the fact that you cannot use the shroud. My Bomb Truck had never even hinted at over heating....

[daveyboy]

Well, Doc.. You say "buy a fan thats smaller in diameter and with more
blades"

Can you sehd any light on part number, vehicel type, etc that I should look for?

I have access to LOTS of ww2 Dodges. the fan diameter and 6 blade would work, but the mounting holes are not the same pitch and this innner pulley circle is too large to propery enter it.

Anyone have a application that they used to fit anotehr fan type on theirs that workedout well?

thanks, Dave

[dr deuce]

I bought a 6 bladed fan at VIP. works great w/o the shroud.

If the starter is not engaging, sometimes the yoke pins are worn. Take the starter apart and if the hole is loose on the bendix drive, squeeze the yoke in a bit so it is not so loose. I have done this for years and it works great. Not tight, just not as loose.

[daveyboy]

Doictor Deuce wrote "I bought a 6 bladed fan at VIP."

What and where is VIP?

I have been searching for online flex fans, race fans, etc. I can get universal 4 slotted 6 fan blades all day long.

Just want to make sure I dont needlessly spend money on something that dont work, hence all my questions.

I dont mind spending money, but wasting it is another issue. I would like to know what worked for you, what didnt.

I am compiling a list of things I bought for my conversion so others will not have to go thru this "try and see if it works routine" if they ever try a 235 conversion.

Its a little more than a bolt in operation, depending on the year of 235 engine you find.

I outlined the parts I bought for the alternator conversion, what I paid and part numbers I bought.

Would love to do this for the fan as well if I ever find one

[dr deuce]

VIP is a auto store for more modern junk

[nwmv]

Dave why not just rebuild the original engine and forego are the jerry rigging you are going to have to do with a replacement engine? This truck most likely worked like it was designed to for many many trouble free years. Why reinvent the wheel.when you can just put it back original without all the hassle and frustration involved with altering the original design. Most likely your truck will not be worked like it was for the first 20 years of its life anyway. Original configuration should be more than adequate for intended use.
Just my 2 cents
Brian

[68427vette]

is this the one you pulled out of WEST TEXAS, down in the sticks????? jc

[dr deuce]

To make the alt work correctly, you need to move the lower mounting away from the engine. It is not difficult to make one or you can buy them.

You will not be unhappy with the more modern engine. Finding a place to rebuild the original engine can be a challenge.

The exhaust donut on a chevy helps to prevent manifold problems that can occur with the CCKW. The donut acts like a ball joint allowing the engine to move (which it does) without the exhaust engine down pipe having a giant lever against the manifold bolts and gasket. The CCKW is hard mounted and with the large pipe and the muffler clamped hard to the frame...

Be advices that there are 2 different ring gears: 6 volt and 12 volt. The pinions on the starters MUST match the ring gear and no, you cannot swap pinions as the shaft on the 12v starter is smaller. I have my 46 Chev dump that someone made a bushing for the 6v pinion to make it work with a 12v starter. A good machine shop can swap ring gears if need be.

You are better off with the step on starter. The 6 volt starter runs just fine on 12 volts.

[samason]

Its your truck of course. I have seen people in our club do to thier vehicles what you are planning to do to yours. Rip out all the original stuff that makes it what it is and replace it with modern stuff. They always use the excuse of dependability. and it cost less money. I have found both excuses to be both inaccurate and un true. Number 1 you gotta spend the money either way , There aint much defference in the cost , Number 2, if you take your time do the reshearch fix it like it should be fixed not only will you have something really special that you will be extremly proud of but it will actually be MORE dependable and reliable. 6 VOLT system and all. I have seen it to many times . You will also be saving a piece of history.
About your engine sounding rough. Take the valve cover off and make sure you dont have a stuck valve.
The Chevy is a great truck. Its the most fun truck to drive i have ever had.

Steve a

[daveyboy]

Hello Steve. First off, thanks for your comments.

However, your like 2 years too late in your suggestions. (see the date when I first posted)

I indeed replaced the NON-ORIGINAL engine that came in the truck with a 1958 dated 235, that I had completly rebuilt, blanaced and so forth.
At the time of install, I had a GMC 5 speed w/ OD installed.
Also, I lost the generator that wasnt working in lieu of a modern one wire alternator, the carb that needed a complete rebuild anyway, and a host of other parts that I needed replaced.
Converted to 12 volt as well with under cap EI unit.

"not only will you have something really special that you will be extremly proud of but it will actually be MORE dependable and reliable"

I AM very proud of my truck, thanks.. and it IS reliable and dependable. hummm.. seems that at each event I seem to be helping my freinds with their 6 volt ALL ORIGINAL setups to either push, pull or somehow get it back onto a car dolly or trailer to said vehicle bring home. They love to brag how its "all original". And these same fellows won't a much follow me in convoy anywhere! THey dont trrust their vehicles! So much for dependability I guess.

You will also be saving a piece of history.

I should like to think I still saved a piece of history. Maybe not to some peoples liking, but its a registered, insured and used regulary vehicle. I didnt jack it up, use monster wheels and tires, paint it purple, etc, etc. All the rest of my truck is stock. It looks 100% from the outside. WW2 unit markings and all. Full canvas, troop seats, etc.

Am I sorry I made any of these changes from stock? Absolutely not! In fact, my truck is not only a good reliable runner, that purrs like a kitten, starts on demand in cold weather, keeps my battery charged at all times, it runs at decent speeds over 45-50 mph when needed . Combined with the installed 5 speed w/ OD and the balanced post war engine, it achieves higher RPM's to allow this.
My earlier engine sounded like it would explode at any speeds past 30 mph.

Some will argue that these mods make it just another worthless truck destroyed by my mods. I argue insterad that I saved a peice of history that can now be driven places and be shown and displayed at the many events I attend.

[samason]

I hear that excuse alot about how scared people are of 6 volt because someone 's vehicle had trouble at a show. Fact is i've seen 24v 12v as well as 6v vehicles have trouble at shows. The problem is not the voltage or the design. Just old vehicles with owners that like me and lot of us just cant afforf to replace EVERY part as needed. So we do the best we can. It keeps these trucks out of the scrap pile.
Im glad you are enjoying your truck. Im sure if i could see it i would appreciate it very much . I am a fan of the Chevy. I had one for awhile. It was the funnest vehicle to drive i ever had.
But i will put my 6v Dodge WC up against any 12v conversion for depenabilty and service.Again its not about voltage . I have been fortunate with this truck to do it right.
I am currently working on a cckw. 6v. I gotta make it dependable. Cant get out and push it out of the road.

Steve a