alternators

[sixbysix]

Can anyone give me an idea of a good make of alternator that I can switch my generator for ( am converting to 12v).
Have been reading a few old posts and they mostly mention single wire alternators ... any reason why? ... and not something a little more modern?

[sixbysix]

I guess the question should not be so much asking modern ... but what amperage alternator I should be looking at - given that most modern single wire alternators available on e-bay seem to produce 100 amps or more ..... given that the regulator produces 25 amps ( is this correct?) then how can the system ( ammeter) handle 110 or more - if at all .....

[sixbysix]

my last post - that should read "generator" producing 25amps - not "regulator" ,,,,and actually the regulator from TM10-1563 should be 40 amps ....but nevertheless the alternators are producing a hell of a lot more current than the regulator .... is that a problem or potential problem? ... or can it be solved simply by putting in a 40 amp fuse??

[sixbysix]

- and I presume I want an alternator that is internally regulated versus externally regulated ..... ?

[dr deuce]

get a mid 70's GM alternator of no more than 35 amps. You might want to consider the location of the mounting and wire connections to make sure you do not have an interference problem.

I say not over 35 amps for two reasons: you don't need more and if you go higher with the wide pulley, you may get slippage.

All of my CCKWs ad Chevys are this way except for the 42 chev dump/plow truck which has a 60 amp alternator because the 2 pumps for the plow and wing are electric

You can still use the generator wiring. Just move the ARM wire to the BAT connection on the regulator.

[dr deuce]

PS: If you have to replace the pulley, you will have t heat the nut. (locktite). If you do, replace the front bearing. You will thank me in the morning...

[sixbysix]

Thanks Dr D
main reason I have been asking about the alternator amperage is that having looking on ebay and 35 amp alternators seem very few and far between - whereas there seems to be plenty of 63/65 and 84 and 100 amp (and above) alternators.

[dr deuce]

The newer cars have a much higher need for juice. I only have used the older 70's-80's GM alternators which GM used prior to serpentine belts.

The CCKW generators if I remember right either 25 amp or 40 amp. Remember, with 12 volts you cut that number in 1/2.

BTW you will need a an ignition series resistor to use the original coil. Get one from a 50's vehicle. In the 'old days' when the starter engages on 12 volt cars and trucks, they bypassed the resistor with the ignition switch or an extra set of contacts on the starter (which the CCKW does not have). This made starting in cold weather much easier. With out the resistor in normal running, you will burn up the points.

On Annie the crane, I have a lever action brake switch mounted to the toe board that follows the starter linkage on the passengers side to bypass the resistor.

[mudflap]

Dr Deuce,

Are the alternators you use the older Delco Remy ones with the internal regulator that were used on GM cars from around the early 70s to the late 80s ?

If so, Rock Auto has a re-manufactured 40 amp "Remy" brand (don't think it is related to "Delco Remy") of this type for $35.99 plus $10 core.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinf ... cc=1057351

I always liked these alternators. They were reliable, and when the did break, they were easy to diagnose and repair. I think that the primary parts are still readily available for them. Plus, the rear case can be re-indexed to put the output post in one of four positions. This can be a real bonus for custom installations.

Best Regards..

[dr deuce]

Yes, that is them. Many will self energize. I wire the plug on mine to make sure.

[mudflap]

So, do you just wire the #1 terminal to a lamp or resistor, in order to reliably start charging? (A lamp would be nice, I guess, as it would provide an indication of a charging system fault.)

I know the units with some miles on them seem to self energize quite easily - presumably since there is enough residual magnetism in the rotor to jump start the field circuit.

On some of the replacements, if the #1 terminal was not hot, you could maybe get them going if you really revved up the engine, but this was not always the case.

I also seem to recall that the #2 terminal is only needed on installations where excessive voltage drop is present on the output circuit. The voltage regulator was then connected to a remote sense location closer to the battery via this connection - in order to get a more accurate reading of battery voltage.

Best Regards...

[sixbysix]

great last questionm mudflap - have been wondering the same myself

[dr deuce]

One gets power with the ign switch. The other is connected to that one with a 27 ohm 2 watt resistor or alternatively you can put a marker light under the dash. Mine gets an eerie glow under the dash when I 1st turn the ign on.

Is there any interest in a small Printed Circuit Board that does the following when you have an after market
directional with indicator light?:

High beam: dull glow
Brake lights on: medium brightness
Directionals: full brightness

You should wire the feed for the directional to the HL switch terminal that supplies power to the brake light switch. That way you can have the flashers if you need them (breakdown etc) without the ign switch on or them being on if you forget to turn them off.

[sixbysix]

as usual - Thankyou Dr D

[sixbysix]

Dr D - or anyone
over here in Australia we have easy access to a 70's-80's GM 'Holden' alternator ...however it is 55 amps output - do you see a problem with this? .... noting also that my cab amp meter has a max reading at 50 amps

[dr deuce]

My guess is that it probably will not hurt it. Of course you could use a slightly smaller wire to the alternator. Ten (10) gauge wire (US) is rated for 30 amps. Eight (8) gauge is rated for 50 amps (I think). I do this with the starter, use a smaller gauge wire that would normally be used for 12 volt applications so it acts a little like a resistor to reduce the current on the 6 volt starter.

BTW: move the feed to the amp meter from the starter to the battery terminal. It will start better.