Careing for your CCKW

joel gopan · Post by **joel gopan** » Sun Feb 06, 2005 11:00 am

remember to change your Engine Oil and filter at least once annually, if your CCKW is just started several times a month to move it in and out of your shop, it will become the victim of sludge. A couple of years ago this is exactly what I did, Ichanged Oil and Filter in Spring, did two parades, Memorial Day and Veterans Day, and moved it in and out of the shop 3 or 4 times a week. A total of less than 60 miles was logged. The following Spring, the crankcase had sludge, which was unusual for the truck. It now gets a two mile drive before being backed into the shop, and the sludge has gone.
Joel

dr deuce · Post by **dr deuce** » Sun Feb 13, 2005 5:45 pm

Joel were you running detergent or non-detergent oil?

joel gopan · Post by **joel gopan** » Tue Feb 15, 2005 10:24 am

I always use a good brand of Detergent, my prob was that the truck got a few dozen 100' journeys with a cold engine. I use Shell Rotella 30, but if I did not have that, I would use Havoline 30. I do not swap brands. During WWII the OE30 used in trucks was Detergent. The only use for non detergent oil ,in my opinion, is for lawnmower wheels, wheelbarrows, and bicycle training wheels.
Joel

dr deuce · Post by **dr deuce** » Tue Feb 15, 2005 6:30 pm

I have heard others give high marks to Shell Rotella too.

I did not know they had detergent oil in WW2. Are you sure? I though it came out in the 50's-60's

Thanks
Steve

Degsy · Post by **Degsy** » Mon May 30, 2005 2:05 pm

Joel,I was very interested in your comments re oiland I have done some research on this.Can you still obtain Rotella in N.America or is it RotellaT? Shell no longer list Rotella on their website in the UK but a company called Morris produce a large range of specialised lubricants and supply worldwide.Website is:-www.morrislubricants. co. uk click on cars and vans, then there is a section for older vehicles also click on Technical and again onthe section for older vehicles.This site is well worth a visit and I have had good service from their products in many different applications over many years,Supreme 30 is the oil for the GMC engine.Usual disclaimer and I hope that this will be of some help on the subject.

joel gopan · Post by **joel gopan** » Mon May 30, 2005 7:55 pm

I will check on the shell Rotella availability Tuesday. (with the Red Label) I have 5 Cases of it left from 10-15 years ago when I bought a Pallet from a distributor just specifically to use in my M-38A1 and CCKW.
Joel

bobc · Post by **bobc** » Mon May 30, 2005 9:31 pm

The worst case of crank case sludge I've ever seen was on a halftrack I bought,the oil pan was pushed in and I didn't have any oil pressure,I pulled the pan and tried to clean it out,the sludge was a solid ring that came out in one piece,I don't think this poor thing had ever had the oil changed,just added. Alot of sludge is the result of not vaporizing the water that condenses on metal parts as the tempature changes,of coarse you guys back east have more of a problem then us out west.

armydriver · Post by **armydriver** » Tue May 31, 2005 8:42 am

I think we forget about the frequent oil changes because we drive these old beauties so little. A lot of condensation is formed because the engines never get up to full operating temps by starting and running for a few minutes.
Sludge is not our friend.

joel gopan · Post by **joel gopan** » Tue May 31, 2005 10:07 am

Niether are some of the the "el cheapo oils" available at the local chain store. Cheaper ain't always as good.
Joel

armydriver · Post by **armydriver** » Tue May 31, 2005 1:11 pm

That's a fact. Question Joel, are the modern detergent single weight oils better in these old engines than the old non-detergent single weight oils? In the old WWII aircraft engines we always ran non-detergent 50 weight aircraft oil and never the detergent oils. Thanks for your input.

joel gopan · Post by **joel gopan** » Tue May 31, 2005 1:33 pm

Do Not be afraid of Detergent Oils, the chemistry of todays modern good grade Single Weight oil is very compatible with the metallurgy of WWII Vehicles. I do not look at price, I look for quality, tread your truck nice. Same for Gear Oils, do not buy the crap you will find at discount stores.
Joel

Degsy · Post by **Degsy** » Tue May 31, 2005 2:14 pm

Re detergent, if you log on to the website shown in my previous mail there is an explanation of correct type of oil to use, the reasons why ,the 'make up' and also the tech specs it meets. This will enable you to match specs with an oil from your local supplier.

Degsy · Post by **Degsy** » Tue May 31, 2005 2:15 pm

Re detergent, if you log on to the website shown in my previous mail there is an explanation of correct type of oil to use, the reasons why ,the 'make up' and also the tech specs it meets. This will enable you to match specs with an oil from your local supplier.

dr deuce · Post by **dr deuce** » Tue May 31, 2005 4:08 pm

I noticed something a few years ago: My cargo CCKW drips a little oil from the rear rear diff pinion. I had bought some mil spec GO from a surplus dealer in the 90's. Stopped the leak dead. Not a drop. When I was forced to buy modern name brand (a couple different brands over the years) GO, the leak came back. I suspect that there was something missing in the mil spec GO. I would have stayed with the mil spec GO except the dealers stopped bidding on it because the givmint declared it hasmat with the usual requirements from the buyers. So then the givmint had to pay someone to dispose of it....

Steve

armydriver · Post by **armydriver** » Thu Jun 02, 2005 6:32 am

That is the way things go. Get something that is good and works and the government bans it.

pfarber · Post by **pfarber** » Thu Jun 02, 2005 5:33 pm

I have to disagree with about 'house brand' oil being cheap or somehow deficient.

Its the SAME oil as in the fancy containers. For a few bucks less you get the same oil without a fancy printed container. Ditto for oil/air filters.

I don't care to change anyones mind on the matter, but just to simply put it out there that there is no difference.

Now RECYCLED oil I run from.

pfarber · Post by **pfarber** » Thu Jun 02, 2005 5:42 pm

Just learned that a barrel of oil contaoins 42 gallons of oil.

Here are some interensting stats:

The 42-gallon barrel of crude oil makes about

19Ã‚Â½ gallons of gasoline,
9 gallons of fuel oil,
4 gallons of jet fuel,
and 11 gallons of other products, including

lubricants, kerosene, asphalt, and petrochemical feedstocks to
make plastics.

That adds up to more than 42 gallons because of
something called "refinery gain" - the processing and chemical
changes increase the volume (but don't ask me any more about
that, I don't know).

Karoshi · Post by **Karoshi** » Thu Jun 02, 2005 6:43 pm

This link maybe of interest to those of you wanting to know whether detergent oil was available in WW2.

http://www.chevron.com/news/publication ... gazine.pdf

See 1957.

Karoshi

joel gopan · Post by **joel gopan** » Thu Jun 02, 2005 9:51 pm

Tell me, which house brand is Rotella T in disguise? Which one is Kendall? Also,all of the OE30 Mil Spec Oil I have seen since the 50s is detergent.
Joel

pfarber · Post by **pfarber** » Sat Jun 04, 2005 10:47 pm

I have to disagree with Mr. Gopan about the bneed for mil spec oil in cckws, or even his preference for high end oils.

As long as the oil meets the specs (there are a whole bunch of abreviations that come to mind) then who cares?

Your personal, ancedotal evidence is just that. You prefer X. Ok, I don't wish to change your mind, but X is not the best, only and last option.

Any, good quality off the shelf oil of the proper weight for the temp will do fine. These are no turbocharged high HP engines. They need simple lubrication provided by the oil that you find in the major stores.

Anything other than that is simpyl preference.

The GMC CCKW

Careing for your CCKW

Careing for your CCKW

Engine Oil

sludge

Engine oil

Engine oil

Detergent Oils