steering box nuts/hinge removal

bobc · Post by **bobc** » Tue May 03, 2005 8:42 pm

This is the kind of odd ball info you guys love to give out,and it's been making me wonder since I parted out the last chassis. Why did they use the counter sunk nuts on the steering box bolts?? Kinda of trivial but strange. Has anyone one found a good way to pull the door hinges of these trucks? Even out here where rust isn't a big problem I'm having a heck of a time getting the bolts to come out,I soaked them with PB,then hit them with the torch,then used the 1/2 inch impact with the impact driver bit on it,I still broke most of the screws off,on the cab side, the door side came right out. This truck has the phillips head bolts so I got lucky there. Thats another thing, whats up with the two different screw heads,both cabs are 43 but one uses phillips the other has the clutch head. Ok I think thats all,lets hear those jewels of wisdom.

joel gopan · Post by **joel gopan** » Tue May 03, 2005 9:33 pm

What do you mean by "Counter sunk nuts"? The steering gears are attached by four bolts with two clamping plates that are bent over one flat of the four larger nuts. There are also four jam nuts used that are used to lock the four larger nuts in place.
Joel
Joel

bobc · Post by **bobc** » Tue May 03, 2005 9:42 pm

On the two trucks I've broken down for parts the steering box was held on by 4 bolts and nuts,plus 4 jam nuts,but the nuts on the inside look like a lug nut,and there is a plate with two counter sunk holes under them. It looks like alot of extra stuff just to hold the box on.

armydriver · Post by **armydriver** » Wed May 04, 2005 9:49 am

I remember reading somewhere that in mid 43 they made a move to the phillips head screws from the regular cap head bolts. I may be wrong, but I think it was in the Army Motors series on the CCKW that is offered on this site.

dr deuce · Post by **dr deuce** » Wed May 04, 2005 10:35 am

I seem to recall one countersunk nut the last time I took one apart.

If you have ever seen how they mounted the civy steering box (lousy) you will know why the givmint wanted something more substantial.

I believe that the box mounting 1-2 countersunk nuts was to allow it to line
up with the cab (initially) before you tightened down the nuts so that there would not be a binding action. Also, if you look at the cab mounting, it is designed so that there is only a small amount of give onthe drivers side with more on the passengers side and a single rocking pivot in the rear.

Steve AKA Dr Deuce

armydriver · Post by **armydriver** » Wed May 04, 2005 11:40 am

I have never taken a steering box apart or removed the one on my truck, but the hardest screws I had to remove were the counter sunk phillips head screw on the outside of the brake drum on the wheels. I ended up having to drill three of them out and use an easy out to remove them. What a task.

dr deuce · Post by **dr deuce** » Wed May 04, 2005 12:26 pm

I looked at a Chev w/o the steering box.

One hole is clearance and 3 holes are oversized and need the plated to
hold the nuts.

This is in keeping with what I said a couple notes ago so that the box does not 'argue' with the cab because of the U-bolt holding the column to the dash.

Steve AKA Dr Deuce